Fukuoka is a lively city, but Kyushu’s wild volcanic nature lies just beyond it. If you’ve come this far south, soak in an authentic Japanese hot spring. Skip the massive, touristy Beppu with its giant hotels. We’re heading to Yufuin, a tiny town hidden in a valley at the foot of Mount Yufu, known for its bohemian streets, art galleries, indie cafes, and beautiful ryokans. For LGBTQ+ couples, Yufuin offers romance, style, and seclusion, with steaming hot springs as the backdrop.

Safety and Privacy

Provincial Yufuin is home to artisans, artists, and boutique hotel owners. The atmosphere here is incredibly relaxed and safe (10/10). No one will bat an eye at a same-sex couple strolling down the picturesque streets. Just like in Hakone, we advise booking private onsens (kashikiri) to bypass public bath rules and enjoy some intimate time.

Morning: The Forest Train

09:20 — Yufuin no Mori Train

The journey from Fukuoka is an attraction in itself. At Hakata Station, board the special Yufuin no Mori (Forest of Yufuin) express. The green train features retro wooden interiors, panoramic windows, and a bar serving local bento boxes and craft beer. Over two hours, you will ride through dense forests and mountains straight into a fairytale.

11:30 — Yunotsubo Street

Exiting Yufuin station, you immediately see the mountain. The town’s main street (Yunotsubo) is lined with wooden houses hiding local pottery boutiques, woodwork shops, and fantastic bakeries. Be sure to try the famous Yufuin Roll (sponge cake with fresh cream).

Afternoon: Misty Lake and Hot Water

13:30 — Lake Kinrin

At the end of the street lies Lake Kinrin. Both hot and cold springs feed it at once, so a mist rolls over the water, especially in colder weather. With its lakeside shrine and swimming koi carp, the scene looks like an ukiyo-e painting.

15:00 — Private Onsen (Rotenburo)

Yufuin has many day spas open to visitors not staying overnight. Head to Musouen or Tsukanoma. Book a private open-air bath (rotenburo). You will lie in hot mineral water, surrounded by rocks and bamboo, enjoying total privacy and mountain views.

Evening: Bento Dinner and Return

17:00 — Sunset in the Valley

The town goes to sleep early. By 5:00 PM, many shops start closing. Grab a delicious ekiben (train bento box) made with local Bungo beef and board the evening express back to Fukuoka.

19:30 — Night in Fukuoka

By evening, you’re back in Hakata, ready to head to the Sumiyoshi district and your favorite LGBTQ+ bar for a glass of plum wine (umeshu).

Practical Solution: Booking the Train

Where to Stay? (In Fukuoka)

For convenient travel around Kyushu, it is best to stay near Hakata Station.

• Premium Comfort (Luxury): Miyako Hotel Hakata — A luxurious hotel near the station. The roof features a heated outdoor pool with thermal water — even in the city, you can enjoy an onsen experience. Excellent, tolerant service. ($200–$280 / €185–€260)