Tokyo wears you down after a few days of Shinjuku neon and Shibuya crowds. When it does, head for the mountains. Hakone National Park sits just an hour and a half from the city.

Hakone is a mountain resort known for its hot springs (onsen), a lake crossed by pirate ships, and clear views of Mount Fuji. For LGBTQ+ couples, the trip is a chance to sink into Japan’s Zen side and share a hot spring without the stress of gender-segregated baths.

Safety and Crucial LGBTQ+ Tip: Onsens

Like everywhere in Japan, safety here is 10/10. But in Hakone, we face the main challenge for queer travelers: Japanese baths (Onsens). Traditionally, onsens are strictly divided into male and female, and you must bathe completely naked. For same-sex couples, this means no romance in the public bath. Additionally, public onsens usually ban people with tattoos.

Morning: Romancecar and the Volcano’s Breath

08:00 — Odakyu Romancecar

Your escape begins at Shinjuku Station in Tokyo. Board the Odakyu Romancecar express. Through the train’s panoramic windows, you will watch the metropolis give way to green mountains.

10:30 — Ropeway and Owakudani Valley

Arriving in Hakone, transfer to the ropeway, which lifts you over the smoking volcanic valley of Owakudani. The air smells of sulfur, and hot steam rises from the earth. Buy Kuro-tamago, chicken eggs boiled in volcanic water until their shells turn pitch black. Legend says one egg adds 7 years to your life.

Afternoon: Lake, Ships, and Water Gates

13:00 — Pirate Ship on Lake Ashi

Take the ropeway down to Lake Ashi. Huge replicas of medieval pirate ships cruise the lake. On a clear day, the deck gives you the postcard view of Mount Fuji’s snow-capped peak.

14:30 — Hakone Shrine

After getting off the ship, walk through the forest to Hakone Shrine. The red torii gate stands right in the water of the lake, one of the most photographed spots in Japan.

Evening: Private Onsen and Return

16:00 — Relaxing in the Hot Springs

After a busy day, it’s time for that private onsen. Book a room for a couple of hours in a traditional ryokan such as Hakone Yuryo. You soak in hot mineral water in a wooden tub right under the open sky, surrounded by forest and silence.

19:30 — Return to Tokyo

After hot baths and dinner (try the local soba noodles), take the Romancecar back to Tokyo. By 9:30 PM, you will be back in Shinjuku, recharged and ready to continue the night in the bars of Ni-chome.

Practical Solution: Hakone Free Pass

Where to Stay? (In Tokyo)

For a trip to Hakone, Shinjuku is the ideal base since the Romancecar departs from there.

• Boutique (Mid-Range): Kimpton Shinjuku Tokyo — Inspired by the New York art scene, but with a Japanese soul. Stunning design, pet-friendly, LGBTQ+ inclusive, and only a 10-minute walk from the station. ($200–$280 / €185–€260)